Hvar Uncovered: Secret Villages and Gourmet Specialities

In this article, we’ll take you on a journey through some of Hvar’s lesser-known corners: the serene stone villages of Malo and Velo Grablje, the rustic culinary haven of Alavia, and wine-tasting at Vino Ventus.

Expect encounters with time-honoured traditions, unspoiled landscapes, and local flavours that speak to the island’s rich heritage. If you’re looking for a deeper, more soulful Hvar experience, this guide is for you.

The Hidden Heart of Hvar

While Hvar Town draws crowds with its lively harbour, bustling squares, and glittering nightlife, Stari Grad offers a more tranquil charm with its serene waterfront and historic streets – yet beyond both, there’s an even quieter side of the island that often goes unnoticed.

Tucked away in the hills and valleys beyond the coastal buzz, Hvar’s inland villages offer a glimpse into a world where time seems to slow down. Places like Malo and Velo Grablje whisper stories of centuries-old traditions, lavender fields, and stone-built homes passed down through generations.

Capturing the quiet beauty of Hvar’s hidden villages: where stone paths, wildflowers, and dramatic cliffs create a moment of stillness.

Malo Grablje: A Village Frozen in Time

Nestled in a secluded valley beneath rugged cliffs, Malo Grablje feels like a scene from a forgotten past. Once a thriving village, it was gradually abandoned in the mid-20th century as residents moved closer to the coast in search of modern conveniences. Today, its stone houses stand quietly under the Mediterranean sun, their weathered facades telling tales of simpler, self-sufficient lives. 

Walking through Malo Grablje is like stepping into an open-air museum; there are no crowds, no souvenir shops, just the raw beauty of untouched heritage. This village is a testament to Hvar’s rural history, inviting visitors to pause, reflect, and imagine life before tourism transformed the island’s shores.

Yet Malo Grablje isn’t entirely asleep. At its heart, Mali Komin, a family-run restaurant, has breathed new life into the village. Here, visitors can savour slow-cooked local specialities like peka (meat or octopus baked under a bell) in an authentic setting, surrounded by the very walls that have stood for generations. Dining at Mali Komin turns a visit to Malo Grablje into more than just a sightseeing stop; it becomes an experience of living history, where food and tradition are shared under the stars.

A table set for a slow, scenic meal in the heart of Hvar’s untouched nature: Mali Komin

Velo Grablje: Lavender Legacy and Slow Living

Just a short drive uphill from Malo Grablje lies Velo Grablje, a village steeped in history and fragrant with lavender. Once the centre of lavender oil production in Dalmatia, Velo Grablje was known for fields that painted the hillsides purple every summer. Though large-scale production has faded, the village still honours this tradition with its annual Lavender Festival, celebrating the craft, scents, and slow-paced way of life that define this corner of Hvar. Wandering through Velo Grablje today means encountering friendly locals tending gardens, restoring old stone houses, and keeping cultural customs alive. It’s a place where the rhythm of life is guided by the seasons, not by tourist timetables, making it a peaceful retreat for travellers seeking authenticity over spectacle.

Velo Grablje– a peaceful village tucked in Hvar’s hills, where time slows down and red-tiled rooftops meet endless sea views.

Alavia: A Hidden Gastronomic Experience

A taste of Hvar’s local flavours-homemade cheese, prosciutto, and marinated delicacies, served fresh and simple.

Perched high above the coast in Velo Grablje, Alavia Soulfood offers an intimate farm‑to‑table dining experience that merges Hvar’s deep culinary traditions with sophisticated flair.  Locally owned and set on a sunlit stone terrace shaded by olive trees, Alavia sources fresh ingredients from nearby gardens, olive groves, and the Adriatic – creating dishes that feel like “love letters to homegrown ingredients”.

Sipping a refreshing drink while soaking in panoramic views over Hvar, Brač, and the Dalmatian coast.

Signature plates such as black risotto with cuttlefish ink, grilled octopus with candied citrus, and a monkfish gregada showcase a harmony of flavours that delights both gourmands and curious food lovers. 

Relaxing in the shade with a cool drink and a view that stretches from Hvar’s green hills to the Adriatic horizon.

Complemented by craft beers, curated wines, refreshing non-alcoholic cocktails, and sweeping views over Pokrivenik Bay, Alavia is not just a meal, it’s a memorable culinary journey into the soulful heart of Hvar. For those in pursuit of authentic taste, elegant presentation, and a serene atmosphere, Alavia is a must-stop, off-the-beaten-path gem that elevates every bite into an island story.

Vino Ventus: Where Wind and Wine Meet

High in the hills above Hvar’s northern coast, Vino Ventus is not your typical winery. Its name, “Wind Wine” reflects both the breezy terroir and the philosophy behind this boutique vineyard. Here, traditional grape varieties thrive in rocky soil, kissed by the salty winds that sweep in from the Adriatic. Run by a passionate local family, Vino Ventus is dedicated to organic, small-batch production, crafting wines that capture the essence of the land with minimal intervention. A visit to this winery is more than just a tasting – it’s an intimate encounter with Hvar’s winemaking heritage. 

Savouring local wines and island flavours at Vino Ventus, where each sip tells a story of Hvar’s winds, soil, and tradition

Guests are welcomed into rustic surroundings to sample robust reds and crisp whites, often paired with homemade cheeses, olives, and stories of the island’s vinicultural past. For wine lovers seeking an authentic, unpretentious experience, Vino Ventus offers a true taste of Hvar’s elemental connection between nature, tradition, and craft.

Vino Ventus-Hvar’s boutique winery, crafting small-batch wines with character, inspired by the island’s winds and heritage

How to Visit These Gems

Stari Grad makes an excellent base for exploring Hvar’s hidden gems, and getting around is easier than you might think:

• Malo Grablje: Just a 20–25 minute drive (12 km) via scenic inland roads through Velo Grablje. The paved route offers breathtaking views and convenient parking near the village entrance.
• Velo Grablje: Slightly closer – about 15–20 minutes from Stari Grad along the same interior road. Parking is available near the village centre.
• Alavia: Located right in Velo Grablje, tucked off the main road in the village’s stone alleys, follow local signs once you arrive. Reservations are wise, especially during peak season.
• Vino Ventus: Nestled in the northern hills near Pokrivenik, it’s easiest to reach by car. 

While ambitious, biking from Stari Grad to Velo and Malo Grablje is possible along interior roads and trails, perfect for experienced cyclists craving a scenic workout. However, given the steep landscape between Malo and Velo Grablje, a gentle hike is more enjoyable for most.  A convenient alternative if you prefer not to drive – expect fares around €25–30 to Velo or Malo Grablje. 

With Stari Grad as your starting point, a half-day loop can easily include all three villages, carve out more time in your itinerary, and you’ll enjoy leisurely meals at Mali Komin or Alavia, plus wine tasting at Vino Ventus.

Final Thoughts: Why Hvar’s Heart Beats in the Hills

Hvar’s coastline may capture the headlines, but the island’s true soul lingers in its hills and hidden villages. Inland, life moves at a different pace – lavender fields sway in the breeze, stone houses hold stories of resilience, and locals welcome visitors with the warmth of generations-old traditions. They’re living reminders of Hvar’s cultural roots and agricultural heritage, offering travellers a chance to connect with the island’s authentic spirit far from the tourist crowds.

By venturing beyond the beaches and bars, you’re not just exploring new places – you’re helping to preserve a way of life that’s deeply rooted in the land. Supporting family-run restaurants like Mali Komin, savouring farm-to-table dining at Alavia, or tasting the windswept wines of Vino Ventus allows you to connect with Hvar’s living heritage in a way that mass tourism can’t offer.

So next time you visit Hvar, consider setting aside the guidebook and embracing the inland journey. You’ll find that the island’s heart doesn’t just beat along the shore- it echoes softly in the hills.