Beyond the Blue Cave: a Hvar Boat Tour to Komiža, Stiniva and the Pakleni Islands
5 minWhen you think of a boat tour from Hvar, chances are the famous Blue Cave tops the list. But travel isn’t always about ticking off the obvious stops, and on this day, the sea had its plans. With rough conditions ruling out the cave, we set off on an unexpected route that turned out to be even more rewarding. What followed was a sun-soaked journey through the wild beauty of Vis island: a stroll through Komiža’s stone streets, a close-up view of Stiniva’s dramatic cliffs, a surreal glide into a Cold War submarine tunnel, and a final dip at the lush, laid-back Palmižana beach. This is the story of a Hvar boat tour with a twist and why sometimes, the best days are the ones that don’t go to plan.
Skip the Crowds and Follow the Sea Breeze
Starting the day from the Hvar dock-boat, booked, sun shining, and the open sea calling. Let the adventure begin.
The morning sun was already warm as we pulled away from Hvar town, the boat skipping over gentle waves as the coastline slipped into the distance. Most travellers set their sights on the famous Blue Cave, but with the weather too rough for entry, we set off in a different direction. And what a decision that turned out to be. Our route took us to the remote charm of Komiža, past dramatic cliffs and into a secret submarine tunnel from another era. We had a stop at the stunning Stiniva bay and a final, sun-drenched cocktail on the lush Pakleni islands. Sometimes the best adventures are the ones you don’t plan.
Komiža from the water-an inviting mix of fishing boats, stone façades, and the slow rhythm of island life on Vis.
First Stop: Komiža – The Soul of Vis
As we approached Komiža, the bay opened up like a postcard: stone houses spilling down the hillside, fishing boats bobbing gently in the harbour, and a quiet sense of history in the air. Tucked into the western side of Vis Island, this laid-back village is all charm: timeless, sun-washed, and famously one of the filming locations for Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again. We stepped ashore and wandered the narrow streets before settling at the restaurant Dal Mare, right by the sea. The scent of freshly grilled fish na gradele drifted from the kitchen at the rooftop terrace, and the mojitos were surprisingly perfect: cool, citrusy, and just strong enough to feel like a holiday.
Wandering through the sunlit streets of Komiža before a seaside lunch.
Slow moments on Komiža’s pebble beach
Stiniva Bay – Dramatic Beauty From the Boat
Anchored in Komiža’s crystal-clear harbour – before stepping into one of Vis island’s most charming towns.
We continued along the rugged coast until the narrow opening of Stiniva Bay came into view, an iconic sight and easily one of Croatia’s most photographed coves. From the boat, the scene was nothing short of spectacular: towering cliffs closed in tightly around a small, pebbled beach, creating a hidden amphitheatre of stone and sea. The turquoise water shimmered in the sun, inviting but wild, as we floated just outside the entrance. There was no need to go ashore since the drama of the landscape, framed by nature alone, was enough to leave us speechless.
Approaching the iconic Stiniva Bay- towering cliffs and a hidden beach that looks straight out of a postcard.
The Unexpected Highlight: Vis Military Tunnel
Not long after, our skipper pointed the bow toward what looked like an unremarkable section of rocky coastline, until a dark, narrow slit in the cliff appeared. As we glided into the opening, the temperature dropped, and everything went quiet. We had entered one of Vis Island’s former military tunnels, built in secret by the Yugoslav navy during the Cold War to hide submarines and patrol boats. The concrete walls echoed with the hum of the engine, and the eerie stillness inside felt almost cinematic, like stepping into a Cold War film set. It was a sharp contrast to the sun-soaked bays outside, and easily one of the most unexpected highlights of the trip.
Cinematic entrance to Vis island’s Cold War submarine tunnel, once a top-secret naval hideout.
Palmižana Beach on the Pakleni Islands
Palmižana’s calm bay is perfect for a final swim, surrounded by yachts, pine forests, and that unmistakable Adriatic glow.
Our final stop brought a complete shift in mood, Palmižana beach on the Pakleni islands, a bohemian haven just off the coast of Hvar. Surrounded by fragrant pine trees, wild rosemary, and exotic gardens, the bay felt like a barefoot hideaway designed for slow living. We dove into the crystal-clear water for one last swim, the kind that washes the day into memory. On shore, beach bars spilt out beneath the trees, serving chilled drinks to sun-kissed travellers. With its blend of art, nature and laid-back charm, Palmižana was the perfect place to pause, exhale, and soak in the Adriatic glow before heading back.
Capturing summer moments at Palmižana-crystal-clear shallows, warm stone paths, and the laid-back rhythm of island life.
Useful Tips for Boat Tour
Pack light but smart, bring swimwear, a towel, plenty of sun protection, and a bit of cash for cafés or cocktails along the way (not everywhere takes cards). An early morning departure is ideal, with calmer seas, cooler air, and fewer boats at the popular spots. And for a smooth, well-organised experience, booking through Experience Concierge is a great option: easy, reliable, and conveniently arranged right from your accommodation in Stari Grad on Hvar island.
Meet the crew—friendly, professional, and full of local tips that made our Hvar boat tour unforgettable
Adriatic Impressions That Stay With You
As we cruised back toward Hvar in the late afternoon light, the wind in our hair and the scent of salt on our skin, the day felt like something between a dream and a discovery. We hadn’t followed the usual route, but that made it all the more memorable. From secret tunnels and cinematic bays to lazy lunches and swims in hidden coves, this was the kind of adventure that lingers long after the tan fades. If you’re planning a Hvar boat tour, don’t be afraid to veer off course – sometimes, the best stories begin where the guidebook ends.
