Secret Beaches of Rab and Krk Islands
RAB’S BEACH HIDEAWAYS
Rab, the most delightful of the Kvarner Gulf islands, is easy to get to from the mainland – a 15-minute ferryboat ride will get you here – and has the highest number of sandy beaches in Croatia. For those in search of beach serenity, you may want to stay away from Rajska plaža (Paradise beach) and Livačina, the island’s most popular and most crowded. Instead, head for the beaches on the Frkanj and Kalifront peninsulas. Frkanj peninsula, also known as ‘the island of love,’ has a long naturist beach called Kandarola, famous as a hideaway for King Edward VIII and his wife Wallis Simpson who liked swimming off the rocks and sunbathing on the sand.
Locally known as ‘the English beach’ thanks to these celebrity visitors, Kandarola is one of the oldest naturist beaches in the world. Reach it by taxi boat from Rab Town or Palit, or drive there. Another popular naturist beach is Sahara, in the north of the island. It’s completely free of amenities, which means that only those with silence in mind will go there. It’s sandy, the waters are marvelously blue, and there are trees at the back where you can find shade. It’s a 30-minute walk from Lopar.
Ciganka naturist beach is another delight for those seeking peace. You’ll find it tucked away in lush wilderness of the northern part of Lopar, with curious sandy rock formations and turquoise seas. The beaches are sandy, there are rocks to swim off, and you can enjoy views of Grgur island as you bathe. Walk or drive here from Lopar. The lush, wooded Kalifront peninsula has a gorgeous stretch of rocky and pebbly beaches called Suha Punta, with quiet rocky areas and fully equipped beaches that don’t get too busy. Located 5km northwest of Rab Town, Suha Punta is easily accessible by taxi boat or by car.
FIND YOUR OWN COVE ON KRK
Heading over to the island of Krk, you’d do well to have your own transport and explore the coast on self-driving jaunts. Along the way, spot the many wild beaches and pick one with the most appeal. Starting from the town of Omišalj, Selehovica bay is a glorious U of small pebbles, backed by low-growth bushes and trees. Located just before the Omišalj campsite, it is blissfully quiet.
Zlatna plaža (Golden beach) sits under high cliffs in the south of the island, between Punat and Stara Baška. To get here, you’ll need to have a boat at your disposal or arrange for a taxi boat, as the beach is only accessible from the water. Wild coves can be found across the stretch between Sepen bay to Njivice. On the same road, but on the opposite side of the island, there is a hidden beach under Rudine and Biserujka cave.
Poised between Krk Town and Punat, the Prniba peninsula is mostly farmland and wooded coast. Drive or walk down the white dirt track (don’t be surprised by grazing animals), to find several small beaches with plenty of trees and shade, and pretty views of Punat town and Košljun island. Another find is Oprna, a shingle-and-sand beach near Stara Baška, full of trees and silence. It is reachable by boat or via the coastal road.
The area before and after the town of Stara Baška has a string of sweet little-known beaches. If you head to the very north of the island, just by the Krk bridge, you’ll find Voz bay, a small port with the ruins of a port building. The beauty of this lovely beach is that it’s easily accessible but never crowded. Once in the bay, explore the smaller hidden coves with views of the bridge.